Essays / s /

Wandering Around L.A. At Night

Since I'm not always traveling to some far flung place to take photos of far flung things, I try to keep shooting here in LA. Often that means wandering around at night trying my hand at photographing some landmarks or working new techniques, or both. Cities are a lot more interesting to me at night. I like the movement and the artificial light is a nice change for me. It's also usually a bit calmer and a little easier to get around. Here's a few shots from some recent excursions around town.

A Walk With Rhinos

While on my trip in Namibia, I visited the Ongava Game Reserve, near Etosha National Park. It's a place well known for rhinos. We were doing our usual game drives - one in the morning, one in the afternoon. On the first day, only an hour or so after I had arrived, we had some good white rhino sightings. I had seen rhinos before in other countries, but they were pretty far away and pretty skittish. These were close and seemed reasonably comfortable with our vehicle being nearby. The next afternoon we found more rhinos, except this group was a bit too far away for decent photos. But today was going to be different. My guide Abram decided we should follow them on foot - something I had hoped for, but hadn't mentioned to him yet. Abram carried a rifle in case of emergency, I carried 2 cameras and a couple of lenses. This was very cool. The difference from being in the safety of a vehicle is kind of startling and refreshing. The ability to get a different perspective for photos was great. Abram told me that the group would pretty much do whatever the youngest rhino would do. If she got spooked, they would all bolt with her. If she got agitated and charged us, the group would help out. So we were ummm.... careful... especially with one of them sporting a nearly 3 foot long horn. We tracked them for over an hour and a half, at times getting as close as a few feet. Eventually they went into some deep brush that was impossible for us to get through. We never seemed to be in any real immediate danger, although we had a few tense moments where we had to back up and act like we were leaving. Getting face to face with these rhinos was a nice change of pace and a great adventure.

Ongava Reserve, Namibia

Death Never Looked So Good

In Namibia's Namib-Nakluft national park, there is a well known spot named Dead Vlei. I've seen or heard a few different translations of the name: "dead marsh", "dead plains", and my guide translated it as "empty sponge". But basically it means "dead place". Nature & travel photographers know it well. It's a popular place to photograph in Namibia, and images of it show up on lots of travel sites and in photo competitions. Dead Vlei is a fairly small pan in the dunes of Sossusvlei, dotted with dead camel thorn trees estimated to be about 900 years old. Yep, 900 yrs. I don't know how much of that time they've been dead, but they're pretty much baked into place, and ain't going anywhere. At one time the pan had water, but that's long gone, and the trees have turned black from the centuries of sun. A real petrified forest. I was lucky to have the whole place to myself for a couple of hours before sunset, as the weather had been changing so much during the day that everyone stayed away. Since it's been so well photographed, the trick is to find a new perspective on the place. I don't know that I've done that, but it was a pretty special place to visit and give it a try.

Hep Cats In Kenya

It's tempting to try to categorize different countries in Africa by the wildlife that might be found there. Of course that would be horribly misleading because obviously any country is much more than its wildlife, and the wildlife itself is much more diverse than any given label. So, I will tell you here and now that Kenya is all about big cats. Yes, I know you will see tons of other interesting animals there. Yes, the Kenyan people are lovely and fascinating and yes, if you go to Kenya for almost any other reason, you will not be disappointed. But... cats. Lions, leopards, cheetahs. All in the same place. Sometimes in the exact same place. The game drives in and around the Maasai Mara are primarily focused on seeing big cats, and its not unusual to see all three in the same day, occasionally on the same drive. So, Kenya = Big Cats. Yep, I'm comfortable with that. These photos were taken on my latest trip to Kenya this past April, where I saw a lot of stuff. But mostly big cats.

Leopard on watch.
Cheetah, early morning.
Young lion playing in a tree.
Leopard silhouette.
Cheetah mother and cub.
Leopard shaking off her nap.

Night Time Is The Right Time

Looking back on my archive of photos from Africa, one type of image that seems to keep coming up is a shot of the starry skies around the camps where I happen to be staying. When possible I plan my African trips around a time when there will be a new moon so I can shoot at night with little or no interference from moonlight. But the skies are so clear, and you're usually so far from any light pollution, that the night sky is pretty amazing even with a bit of moonlight. When the weather cooperates, I've had views of the Milky Way in Africa that are all but impossible in southern California or most other places in the U.S. for that matter. You'll also notice that the "camps" in some of these photos amount to a bit more than a tent on the ground. Even though they are remote, some of them aren't necessarily all that rustic. It's always great to be out there at night - even close to camp - hearing lions roaring (hopefully in the distance) and other animals calling to each other. Night time can be the right time.

Room 2, Little Kulala, Sossusvlei, Namibia
Nyumba #4, Thomson Eastern Serengeti Camp
Room 2, Serra Cafema Camp, Namibia
Nyumba # 5, Thomson Ngorongoro Camp, Tanzania

Sand Blast

Ok, so the first thing you need to know about the Namibian desert is that it's huge. It goes up the entire coast of Namibia - longer than California by about 300 miles - and stretches inland up to 100 miles. It's not just big that way, it also has the tallest dunes in the world. So... it's huge. It's also old. It's considered the oldest desert in the world. I don't know how they figure that out, but who am I to argue? But, before I get all Wikipedia on you, what you really need to know it that it's absolutely amazing to be there. In Sossusvlei the sand is pink/red/orange, in the north it is golden. The shear volume of sand is mind boggling, and for a photographer it's the kind of place you can stay in for days and never run out of stuff to shoot. Here's a few images to give you an idea.

Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park
Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park
Marienfluss Valley, Namib Dessert
Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park
Above Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park

The Himba

It's always good to visit with the locals, especially when the locals are as interesting as the Himba. The Himba are nomadic tribes found in northern Namibia. They set up semi-permanent settlements and then graze cattle on what little grass the desert provides. Where are the men you ask? They are out with the cattle for weeks or months at a time. They follow the rain and go as far away as needed to keep the cows fed. The women and children stay in the "village". I visited with a couple of groups who were living near the camp where I stayed along the Namibia/Angola border. A beauty tip if you want to be a fashionable Himba woman: use ochre on your skin and in your hair. The women put a fresh coat on their skin every morning and use the clay in their hair and jewelry. It's a cool look.

Love The One You're With

I knew I was going to Africa at the tail end of the rainy season. Previous trips had been mostly in the winter months and I wanted a different look to my photos. What I guess I didn't count on was the actual rain part. I mean I knew it would be raining at some point, but aside from bringing a poncho, it didn't really register what that meant. And while I always hoped for beautiful late afternoon sun to light up something for me to shoot, I more often got storms. Dramatic, lightning filled storms. A couple in Namibia and every day in Kenya. So that's what I would take photos of in the afternoons - big dramatic storms. "And if you can't be with the one you love...." I think it was Stephen Stills who taught me that.

Ongava Game Reserve, Namibia
Olare-Orok Conservancy, Kenya
Olare-Orok Conservancy, Kenya
Sossuvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia

It Really Is Quite Tall

Had a quick stop in Dubai the other night and took advantage of a seriously screwed up internal clock to stroll around and take some photos of the Burj Kalifa Tower. It really is quite tall. Now, if you'll excuse me, I think I could use some sleep.

The Village People

One of the cool things about going to all of these far off places is seeing and hearing what kind of music people are playing. Although I tend to shy away from prearranged visits to see indigenous people because they often seem too staged, this little village in the Solomon Islands took me by surprise. (and when I say village, I mean a very small island that was a village) They were playing PVC pipes with the soles of sandals. If you've ever seen Blue Man Group, it was a lot like that except for the sandal part. From what I was able to gather the PVC replaced bamboo some time ago, although the guys who were "playing bass" were blowing into bamboo pipes.

Take a look at this clip for a taste:

A more complete gallery from the trip is at this link:

Fly Away

I'm not a "birder". I don't walk around my backyard with binoculars and a field guide. I never put a lot of thought into them really. So the first time I went to Africa, they weren't particularly on my radar. Like most folks I thought Africa was all lions, elephants and giraffes. But since that first trip I've become a big fan of birds. At least African birds. On any given day, in any given location I've been to in Africa there are more bird species than I would see in a couple of years at home - and I've only scratched the surface. I put a few pix of them up here. Hmm, maybe it's time to buy a pair of binoculars.

African Fish Eagle, Botswana
African Brown Parrot, Botswana
Saddle Billed Stork, Kenya
Little Egret, Botswana
Lilac Breasted Roller, Botswana
Ostrich, (mating dance) Tanzania

Rooms With A View

For over a decade I've been taking panoramas from hotel rooms. Lots of hotels rooms. Every hotel room I've stayed in since 2003. I don't think I missed any of them. In the back of my mind I guess I thought it would make an interesting book at some point. I've been to a lot of places, and have stayed in all kinds of hotels and motels. The views ranged from parking lots and alleys, to amazing cityscapes and landscapes. I've never tried to hide the mundane or enhance the more interesting, I've just tried to get a technically decent panorama. Here are a few from the collection. Hopefully I'll put them together as a book sometime soon.

Marina Sands Hotel, Singapore Room 3769, 2011
Newbury Street Guest House Boston. Room 201, 2010
Hampton Inn, Moab Utah. Room 134, 2013
Holiday Inn Express Amarillo,Texas. Room 102. 2009
Ole Sereni Hotel, Nairobi Kenya. Room 323. 2012
Address Hotel Room 4504, Dubai, 2010

Sailfish Extravaganza

These photos are from one of my favorite underwater trips. A couple of years ago I went to Isla Mujeres Mexico, not far from Cancun. In the winter, sailfish congregate and feed off of schools of sardines. A lot of the action happens near the surface, so diving isn't even required to see what's happening. Being in shape helps though. Keeping up with schools of fish trying to stay alive is hard work. There were several times when we counted over 40 sailfish around us. That's a lot.

Guadalupe Seals

I think I've been to Isla de Guadalupe off the coast of Baja Mexico four times now, but this is the first time I tore myself away from the shark cages long enough for a shore excursion to see the fur & elephant seals that live along the coast of the islands. This is the reason white sharks hang out in this area for a few months every year. (aka "dinner")

Facebook is making it tough!

For the last couple of years I've posted images on my Facebook page fairly regularly. I've watermarked them to help insure that they wouldn't be stolen. (even though Facebook down-rez's the hell out of them, you'd be surprised where they end up) Now Facebook seems to have changed their privacy policy once again & has made it difficult for me and all photographers to share content on their site. With these new policies making it more possible than ever for Facebook itself to be the thief of my photos, I am in the process of removing all of my photographic and video content from Facebook. This is a really disappointing decision to have to make, but not a difficult one. Allowing Facebook to use my work without compensation is...well...insane. From now on I will be posting links on my Facebook photo page to content I post here in my blog, and hopefully those who enjoyed seeing pix and reading about them will click & come over. Thanks!

More update than blog

This is more of an update than a good (old fashioned?) blog entry. Mostly just good awards news. My photo "Double Vision" placed as a finalist in the nature category in the World Open Of Photography. It didn't make it into the top three, but I was in pretty good company with some great photographers as a finalist, and was glad it was recognized among so many entries. Another of my images will be on display in January at the 22nd Los Angeles International Photography Art Exposition, photo l.a. "Tree Lines" is one of 20 finalists in the Emerging Focus International Photo Competition that will be on exhibit at the Expo. Earlier this fall I had 16 images come up with Honorable Mentions in The International Photography Awards (IPAs). So a nice ending to a good photo year! I've also been hard at work putting together hundreds of selections for stock and uploading them to Tandem Stills & Motion, where my work will be available for licensing at

I will put up a real honest to goodness blog post soon.

World Open Nature Finalists

2012 Emerging Focus Finalists

Some Mornings Are Better Than Others

This being my first blog post, I thought I'd start with a highlight. Why start with a lowlight? That would leave a bad taste in your mouth, and I may want your to read another post sometime. Of course each trip has it's highlights, but truly unique photo ops are rare and remind you why you schlep all of your gear so many miles to reach these places. I recently returned from another trip to Africa. (Yes, that Africa.) On my first trip to Africa, nearly everything seemed like a great photo op. It took a couple of safaris to get used to all of the things that made me raise my camera (read: nearly everything) and wait for moments that were real opportunities. Every day on safari begins the same way for me. My guide and I leave camp before sunrise looking to shoot in the morning light. Like most wildlife photography, it's a little bit of a crap shoot. Sometimes I end up with just a pleasant sunrise landscape photo, other times maybe some portraits of big animals waking and starting to move around or hunt. And there are plenty of mornings that just don't pan out. This would not be one of those mornings. At sunrise the day before, I had been to a pool with lots of bird activity, a hippo in the water, and great morning light. After checking my images from that day, there were a couple of shots I might want to try again if conditions were similar - knowing that there aren't a lot of second chances in wildlife photography. When we got there, the light was great again as we had hoped, but most of the birds had moved to another side of the pond. In their place was a beautiful lechwe (in the antelope family) in the middle of the water, and four hungry hyenas circling it from shore. I'm used to seeing hyenas scavenging for food or taking advantage of a wounded animal, so to see them hunting a large healthy animal in water was unusual. The lechwe was trapped in the water, which isn't a horrible thing as they're very well adapted to water - the hyenas - not as much. We sat and watched as the hyenas would close off escape routes and then back off. A couple of the hyenas then started a series of charges into the water to force it into an area where the others were waiting, but the lechwe seemed to outsmart them each time. Each one of these charges was like an act in a play, and the play went on for well over an hour. That hour was during the best light of the day. Perfect lighting for the splashing water, as well as a beautiful way to witness this survival scene. And since they kept repeating their charges, I had the chance to get the settings I wanted with none of the panicking and name calling that usually goes with shooting sudden action scenes. The hyenas eventually tired and got distracted, and the lechwe bolted for shore - joining it's herd a few hundred yards away. It worked out for the lechwe, and for me. One of my mornings that was better than others.